A flat roof is a type of covering of a building. In contrast to the sloped form of a roof, a flat roof is horizontal or nearly horizontal. Materials that cover flat roofs typically allow the water to run off freely from a very slight inclination.[1]

Traditionally flat roofs would use a tar and gravel based surface which, as long as there was no pooling of water, was sufficient to prevent penetration. However, these surfaces would tend to fail in colder climates, where ice dams and the like could block the flow of water. Similarly, they tend to be sensitive to sagging of the roof reversing the subtle grading of the surface.

Modern flat roofs tend to use a continuous membrane covering which can better resist pools of standing water. These membranes are applied as a continuous sheet where possible, though sealants and adhesives are available to allow for bonding multiple sheets and dealing with structures penetrating the roof surface. Far more expensive flat roof options include sealed metal roofs using copper or tin. These are soldered interlocking systems of metal panels.

Modernist architecture often viewed the flat roof as a living area. Le Corbusier’s theoretical works, particularly Vers une Architecture, and the influential Villa Savoye and Unité d’Habitation prominently feature rooftop terraces. That said, Villa Savoye’s roof commenced leaking almost immediately after the Savoye family moved in. Le Corbusier only narrowly avoided a lawsuit from the family due to the fact they had to flee the country as France succumbed to the German Army in WWII.

Flat roofs tend to be sensitive to human traffic. Anything which produces a crack or puncture in the surface can quite readily lead to leaks. In other words, this sort of roof has a major weakness to failure from subsequent work done on the roof – such as upgrading building HVAC systems and so forth. It is thus not generally advisable to use a flat roof as a living area unless steps are taken to protect the roofing membrane from those using the area, for example, by building a wooden deck over the surface or using paving stones or similar materials to protect the roof membrane. It is not advisable in general to have living areas directly under such a roof either, due to the high likelihood of eventual leakage.

One of the more interesting (re)emerging methods of protecting the roofing membrane is to use a layer of topsoil and grasses. Care should be taken not to plant anything the roots of which will penetrate the membrane surface. The green roof interestingly enough, tends to trap moisture on the roof, but keeps it up in the soil and plants, rather than having it pool down on the membrane surface.

St. Louis Roofing, Saint Louis Roofer, STL Flat Roof

Common Flat Roofs found in St. Louis Missouri are as follows:

EPDM St. Louis Roofs are commonly found on more than 20% of St. Louis commercial roofs do to their ability both withstand punctures and peform well with cold weather.

TPO St. Louis Roofs are beginning to become more common and currently make up more than 15% of St. Louis commercial roofs. These systems are more LEED and Green friendly.  They also have a tensile strength 10x’s more than conventional EPDM systems.

BUR Roofs currently make up more than 20% of St. Louis Commercial Roofs and are slowly being phased into TPO systems.

Metal Roofs currently make up more than 20% St. Louis Commercial Roof and perform really well with the most common being standing seam metal roofs.

If you would like to learn how Solomon Contracting can help you with your Flat Roof Commercial needs contact us today.

Some of the common St. Louis Roofs are:

St. Louis Residential Roof Systems are shingles, slate tile, and flat asphalt roofs.

St. Louis Commercial Roof Systems are EPDM, SPF, TPO, Metal, and BUR roofs.

You can learn more about which roof sytems will work for you by contacting your Greater St. Louis Roofing contractor, Solomon Contracting Inc.

Solar panels harvest the sun’s energy to produce electricity to power lights and appliances or for any use that requires electrical power.

Solar photovoltaic cells are arranged in a grid-like pattern on the surface of the solar panel. These solar voltaic cells collect sunlight during the day and convert it into energy. Energy is created when sunlight strikes the solar panels crystals and causes some electrons to break loose.

The amount of power produced depends largely on the quality of the solar panels and the technology in making it. Panels of special semiconductors like silicon convert the sun’s energy directly into electricity.

Of the three main types of solar panels available, monocrystalline panels have the highest output per cell area and are the most expensive. Polycrystalline cells are slightly less expensive. Thin film type, though considered unbreakable, are only half as efficient per cell area.

We are now moving closer to harnessing the full potential of solar energy, but much has still to be done in terms of research to make it cost-efficient before it can be used on a widespread basis. The advantages of using solar panels to harvest the energy of the sun for general household use will dramatically cut electric bills and reduce pollution.

Solar modules are used to harness solar energy. These modules can be customized to cater for different power generation needs. On a commercial basis, the modules of crystalline silicon is the most efficient available. These modules are designed in complete packages for residential, commercial and industrial purposes.

Solar panels in the past have been of silicon but as silicon is becoming more expensive, research have turned to other materials. Lately, a whole new type of solar panel is produced. They are made of plastic and the price is comparatively cheap. These plastic panels work just as well to power just about any appliance that is used in a home out in a remote location.

Solar panels are mostly placed on the roof. The power generated is transmitted to a battery for storage and household power needs are drawn from this storage. Installing solar panels on commercial and industrial roofs should be done by a professional roofing contractor.

Solar energy is also most suitable for heating water for use, swimming pools and hot tubs. The best thing about solar power is that it does not release harmful emissions or effluents leading to global warming, acid rains and smog .

Step 1: Find the source of the roof leak

Tools you will need:

• Proper Safety equipment and tie offs.
• Ladder
• Paint-Brushes
• Rubber gloves
• Seams Probe Tool
• Silicone hand roller.

These tools can be purchased from the roofing supply warehouse or from a local lumber yard. We recommend getting the brushes from the roofing warehouse, to make sure it is compatible with the adhesive and cleaning solution. Home Depot and Lowe’s will probably not
have the hand roller on the probe tool, but you can find something similar there.

You will also need the solvent-based cleaning solution for seams and EPDM seam adhesive and seam tape. These should be purchased from a roofing warehouse. Home-Improvement stores usually do not have what you will need.

Before you go on the roof be sure to look on the underside whether it’s an open ceiling or you can gain access do your best to pin-point the leaks origination point before getting on the roof.  Also be sure to let someone know you are going on the roof for safety pre-cautions.

Most of flat roof leaks occur at the seams, so we you will need to inspect all seams on your rubber roof with a seam probe tool. To locate the leak in your rubber roof, you will need to actually get on the roof and with a simple probe-tool check all the seams to find the place where adhesive no longer holds the membrane together. Also check all roof penetrations (Pipes, Vents, etc.) and curbs such as Sky-lights and HVAC units. Mark the spots where the seams are broken. To see a more extensive list of items to check be sure to grab our complimentary maintenance checklist on the right.  Just enter your email address and we will send it right over.

If you have loose gravel on the roof, you’ll need to sweep it off the seams with a heavy broom, so it is not in your way. Do not use shovels or anything that has metal edges as you may cause additional damage to the membrane.

Step 2: Prepare your roof for repair

Now that you’ve located the source of your roof leaks, you need to clean the surface of the rubber, so you can apply the adhesive or seam tape. With cloth and warm water, thoroughly wash off as much dirt as you can and let it dry. Do not use gasoline to clean the rubber membrane. Although many installers will tell you it is safe – many manufacturer’s warranty prohibits cleaning EPDM rubber with gasoline.

Rubbing alcohol can be a good and inexpensive solution as well. There are also cleaners available from the manufacturer, and these are the best to use, but they are more expensive. So if you have a very small area to clean just use rubbing alcholol.

Once the roof surface is clean and dry, pull the seams apart about 1 foot away from the location of the leak. According to manufacturer’s directions, thoroughly clean seams with the cleaning solution, making sure you remove all existing adhesive and let it dry. The procedure may have to be repeated.

This and the next steps are crucial to the quality of the repair and elimination of the future leaks.

Step 3: Applying Adhesive and/or Seam Tape

Use the brush to apply the adhesive to both surfaces of the seams. Try to get the adhesive as deed as you can under the top sheet of membrane (6-8 inch wide seams a recommended). Also thoroughly apply adhesive to ‘corners’ – where you pulled seams apart and the new adhesive comes in contact with the old one.

Once you’ve applied adhesive, put the seams together and use the silicone roller to apply pressure to the seams. This will ensure a quality seam repair. Let the new seams completely dry. Do not attempt to test them with the probe tool just yet. Wait 24 hours until the next step.

Step 4: Testing the seams and applying the Seam Tape

Now your newly-repair seams should be dry and ready to be tested. Use the seam probe to test all seams that you have repaired. If you followed the previous directions and used the silicone roller, your seams should be like new, and the probe should not be able to split the seams. If you do find imperfect adhesive bond, repeat Step 3 by reapplying the adhesive and using the silicone roller to apply pressure.

At this stage, we recommend to also use the seam tape to further ensure quality of your repair job and extend the length of time which the repair will last. Apply the seam tape with the silicone roller, extending it by 1 foot in each direction from the end of your seam repair. Use the edge of the silicone roller to make sure there is good adhesion where there is a slight elevation change from one sheet of rubber to another. If your seams job was done well, there is no need to test the seam tape. You are now done!

Additional notes:

Note: Do not attempt to repair you rubber roof if the outside temperature is below 35-40 degrees, as it might be too cold for the adhesive to dry properly.

Caution: Do not use ‘Ice &Water tape’ – you should only use the seam tape made for EPDM rubber roofs.